Chapter One: Diary of a werewolf in Turkey

We set sail for two weeks to explore the Hellenistic and Classical sites on the southwest coast Turkey.

Werewolves love to sail. It's almost as good as hanging your head out of a pickup truck.

Most of the sites had been by the water originally (before the bay or river silted up), or were still on them (hence the sailing). Most of them had great views--being high up helped with communication and protection. It also helped develop our leg muscles.

Some of the sites, like Bargylia (above), were pretty remote, and in addition to the ruins, we found various species of thorns, nettles, and stickers, as well as beaucoup goat poop. And it was hard to imagine there were once bustling towns here.

While some sites and monuments, like this Roman imitation of the Mausoleum of Helicarnassus, were right in the middle of a modern town, like Milas. (We eventually saw the ruins of the original Mausoleum, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, but that comes later!)

When something was still standing, it was always a good idea to remember to look up...

...and look underneath, when it was allowed. Claustrophobia, anyone? Temple of Doom, anyone? But there was always something new and nifty to see.

And it was good to remember that people still live on the sites of these towns, 2400 years later. This is the market at Milas.


The market seemed to get bigger, the more we explored it. Visiting the modern cities helped us imagine what an ancient Greek agora might have been like.

Even speaking a little bit of Turkish, we were able to buy loads of pistachios and roasted pumpkin seeds. "Loads" = 1 kilogram = too much!

Food is a great way to explore a culture, and these fresh dates and grapes were exquisite. But always remember to wash them first!